Haute Joaillerie · Paris · Est. 1906
Van Cleef & Arpels
Poetry in jewellery.
The house of Van Cleef & Arpels was born from a love story. Alfred Van Cleef, son of a diamond cutter, married Estelle Arpels, daughter of a precious stone dealer, in 1895. In 1906, following the death of Estelle's father, Alfred and her brothers Charles and Julien opened a boutique at 22 Place Vendôme, Paris — directly opposite the Ritz Hotel, in the heart of the world's most prestigious jewellery quarter. The address remains the house's home to this day.
In 1933, Van Cleef & Arpels invented the Mystery Set — a proprietary technique in which gemstones are mounted with no visible prongs or claws, creating the illusion that the stones float in mid-air. Each stone must be individually calibrated and cut to microscopic tolerances, then slid into position through a hidden rail system. The technique requires extraordinary skill and takes master setters years to perfect. No other jeweller has ever replicated it to the same standard, and it remains Van Cleef & Arpels' most guarded technical secret.
In 1968, the house created the Alhambra — a long necklace composed of 20 four-leaf clover motifs in yellow gold trimmed with gold beads, inspired by the Moorish quatrefoil patterns of the Alhambra Palace in Granada. The clover had been an internal symbol of the house for decades — Jacques Arpels, nephew of the founders, habitually gave four-leaf clovers to employees as lucky charms. The Alhambra became an instant icon. Princess Grace of Monaco, Farah Diba, and countless celebrities have been photographed wearing it. Today the collection spans over 100 designs in mother-of-pearl, onyx, malachite and precious stones.
Van Cleef & Arpels is celebrated for the dreamlike, poetic quality of its jewellery — butterflies, fairies, ballerinas, flowers and animals created with extraordinary technical mastery. The Frivole collection (spring flowers), Perlée (polished gold beads), and Rose de Noël (carved hardstone winter roses) are among the house's beloved signatures. In 1999, the Richemont Group acquired Van Cleef & Arpels. The École des Arts Joailliers — the house's prestigious jewellery school — teaches the history and craft of jewellery to thousands of students worldwide.
Entry Alhambra pendants begin around $3,450 in yellow gold with agate. Full Alhambra necklaces start from approximately $12,000. Mystery Set pieces — requiring weeks of skilled labour — command significant premiums, typically from $50,000 to several hundred thousand. High Jewellery commissions can reach $1,000,000 and beyond.